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Care symbols, the washing routine and stains – everything you need to keep your clothes looking good for longer.
Care labels
The symbols on your care label tell you exactly how to treat each garment. Here's what they mean.
One bar: reduced cycle, lower spin, lower heat. Two bars: very gentle – treat it almost like hand washing.
More dots mean more heat. For ironing, one dot is low, two is medium and three is high. Tumble drying uses one dot (low) or two (normal).
The symbol is crossed out when that treatment would damage the garment. This is the one rule you should never test.
This symbol indicates whether domestic washing is possible and applies both to hand and machine washes. The number in the wash tub is the maximum washing temperature in °C. One bar below the tub means a milder cycle with reduced mechanical action; two bars mean a very mild cycle (e.g. wool).
Articles marked in this way must not be washed. They may be sensitive to any kind of wet treatment or be unsuitable for washing in a domestic washing machine because of their size.
Hand wash at a water ambient temperature between around 20 to 30 °C. First dissolve a fine detergent in plenty of water. Allow the textiles to float in the solution and agitate carefully. Do not rub, pull and wring out. Then rinse the textiles well, press the superfluous water out very carefully and pull into shape. Treat coloured and sensitive pieces rapidly and do not leave lying in the wet state.
Hand wash at a water temperature at a maximum of 40 °C. First dissolve a fine detergent in plenty of water. Allow the textiles to float in the solution and agitate carefully. Do not rub, pull and wring out. Then rinse the textiles well, press the superfluous water out carefully and pull into shape. Treat coloured and sensitive pieces rapidly and do not leave lying in the wet state.
Articles made, e.g. of machine-washable wool. This washing cycle ensures a much reduced mechanical treatment. Select an appropriate washing program. Reduce the quantity of laundry substantially.
For articles, e.g. in modal, viscose, polyacryl, polyester and polyamide. Reduce the quantity of laundry. Select an appropriate washing program. Avoid spinning or do spin for short periods only to minimise the risk of creasing.
Washing cycle, e.g. for dark coloured articles in cotton, polyester, mixed fabrics etc. Select an appropriate washing program.
For articles e.g. in machine-washable wool. This washing cycle ensures a much reduced mechanical treatment. Reduce the quantity of laundry substantially. The drum should be no more than one-third full. Select an appropriate washing program.
Fine laundry, e.g. in modal, viscose, synthetic fibres (polyacryl, polyester and polyamide). Reduce the quantity of laundry. Select a suitable washing program. Prewash only heavily soiled textiles. Avoid spinning or do spin for short periods only to minimise the risk of creasing.
Washing cycle e.g. for dark coloured articles made of cotton, polyester, mixed fabrics etc.
Mild washing cycle at a maximum of 50 °C. Reduce the quantity of laundry and select a gentle washing program. Avoid spinning or do spin for short periods only to minimise the risk of creasing.
Washing cycle at a maximum of 50 °C, e.g. for coloured articles that must not be washed at higher temperatures.
Reduce the quantity of laundry. The drum must not be more than two-thirds full. Set the appropriate washing program (careful wash). Prewash only if the textiles are heavily soiled. Avoid spinning or do spin for short periods only to minimise the risk of creasing.
Coloured articles which must not be washed at boiling temperature e.g. made of cotton, modal, polyester and mixed fabrics.
Articles e.g. in cotton or linen, white, suitable for boiling, dyed or printed. Fill the drum completely. Set an appropriate washing program (normal washing cycle). Pretreat stubborn stains. Energy-saving method.
Articles e.g. in cotton or linen, white, suitable for boiling, dyed or printed. Fill the drum completely. Set an appropriate washing program (normal washing cycle). Pretreat stubborn stains.
The triangle indicates whether the article may or may not be bleached.
The empty triangle is the symbol for chlorine and oxygen bleach.
The triangle with two oblique lines indicates that oxygen bleach (contained in universal detergents) is permitted but not chlorine bleach.
The triangle with a diagonal cross (St. Andrew's Cross) indicates that bleaching is not allowed. Use only bleach-free detergent.
The square is the symbol of the drying process. A circle in the square refers to tumble drying – the dots show the temperature. Lines in the square indicate natural drying (line, drip line, flat, drip flat); the oblique line means drying in the shade.
Drying in the tumbler is possible under normal load and temperature (80 °C) without limitations.
Caution is appropriate when tumble drying. Select a mild process with reduced thermal action (temperature 60 °C, duration of treatment).
Articles unsuitable for tumble drying.
E.g. all colourfast textiles.
E.g. colourfast, large textiles, to dry them without wrinkles.
E.g. heavy, colourfast textiles.
E.g. colourfast but delicate textiles.
E.g. textiles which are not colourfast (silk).
E.g. delicate textiles like silk.
E.g. woollen or delicate textiles.
E.g. woollen jackets.
The dots indicate the temperature ranges for ironing (regulator, steam and travel irons and ironing machines). The maximum temperature must be selected solely on the basis of the care label and not according to the fibre content. Caution is also appropriate when fabrics have embossed effects or applications.
Iron at maximum sole plate temperature of 210 °C. Corresponding to the "cotton/linen" setting; iron whilst damp; treat and if necessary moisten; shiny or pressure-sensitive pieces should be ironed with a press cloth or ironed inside out. A steam iron may be used.
Iron at maximum sole plate temperature of 160 °C. Corresponding to the "wool/silk/polyester/viscose" setting: iron under a moderately moist intermediate cloth. A steam iron can be used. Avoid heavy pressure.
Iron at maximum sole plate temperature of 120 °C. Corresponding to the "polyacryl, polyamide (nylon), acetate" setting: if necessary, shiny or pressure-sensitive pieces should be ironed with a press cloth or inside out. A steam iron may cause irreversible damage.
Iron at maximum sole plate temperature of 120 °C without steam. Corresponding to the "polyacryl, polyamide (nylon), acetate" setting: if necessary, shiny or pressure-sensitive pieces should be ironed with a press cloth or inside out.
Irreversible changes must be expected if an iron is used.
The circle gives information on the possibility of professional dry- or wet-cleaning, carried out by professionals. The letter tells the cleaner which method and solvents may be used; a bar below the circle means a milder process.
Normal wet cleaning methods with no restrictions.
Wet cleaning technique for sensitive textiles with reduced mechanical action.
Wet cleaning techniques for very sensitive textiles with much reduced mechanical action.
No professional wet-cleaning allowed.
Normal cleaning process with no restrictions. Commercial stain removers on a solvent base may be used with some restrictions. A trial on a concealed part of the article is advisable beforehand.
Mild cleaning process with stringent limitation of added humidity and/or mechanical action and/or temperature. Commercial stain removers on a solvent base may be used with some restrictions. A trial on a concealed part of the article is advisable beforehand.
Normal cleaning process with no limitations. Commercial stain removers on a solvent base may not be used.
Mild cleaning process with stringent limitation of added humidity and/or mechanical action and/or temperature. Commercial stain removers on a solvent base may not be used.
No professional dry-cleaning allowed. Do not use stain removers which contain solvents.
Care symbols and descriptions: © GINETEX – The International Association for Textile Care Labelling (ISO 3758). Used under licence.
Washing, drying, ironing
Most wear and tear doesn't happen while you wear your clothes – it happens in the laundry. Small changes to the routine make the biggest difference.
Sort by colour (whites, lights, darks) and by fabric weight. Heavy jeans and towels rub against delicate blouses and can damage them.
Empty pockets, close zips and hooks, open buttons, turn prints, denim and dark colours inside out. Put small or delicate items in a mesh bag.
Clothes need water and movement to get clean. An overfull machine leaves residue and creases; a nearly empty one wastes water and energy.
30 °C handles everyday dirt. Save 60 °C for bedding, towels and underwear.
– follow the dosing guide on the pack. More detergent does not mean cleaner clothes.
Shake each garment out and smooth the seams before drying. Then leave the door and the detergent drawer open until the drum is dry – this prevents musty smells.
A good shake and a gentle tug at the seams while damp means fewer creases and less ironing.
A line or drying rack is the gentlest way to dry – and it costs nothing.
Wool and heavy knits stretch under their own weight on a hanger. Lay them flat on a towel or rack.
Direct sunlight fades dark and bright colours. Dry them in the shade or inside out.
Choose low heat and don't over-dry – over-drying is what shrinks and wears fibres.
Hang shirts and trousers straight away and let them finish drying – often no iron is needed.
One dot for synthetics and delicates, two for wool and silk, three for cotton and linen.
Sort by temperature and work upwards – an iron cools down slowly.
Protects dark colours, prints and linen from shine.
A thin cotton cloth between iron and fabric protects wool, delicate fabrics and technical shells.
A steamer removes creases and refreshes garments without pressing the fibres flat.
Warm fabric creases again easily.
An empty triangle means any bleach may be used, a triangle with two lines means oxygen/non-chlorine bleach only, and a crossed-out triangle means no bleach at all.
It is gentler on fibres and colours than chlorine bleach.
Bleach damages protein fibres and stretch.
Undiluted bleach can leave pale spots or holes.
Try it on a hidden spot, like an inside seam.
Bleach residue keeps working on the fibres.
A circle means professional care. The letter tells the cleaner which method to use: P and F for dry cleaning, W for professional wet cleaning.
Tell the cleaner what the stain is and how old it is – it makes removal much easier.
Professional wet cleaning uses water instead of solvents and is gentle on many garments.
Suits and coats rarely need cleaning – brush and air them between wears.
Let the garment air out, and store it in a breathable cotton bag.
They need their own cleaning process.
Stains, gently
Three rules solve most stains: treat them as soon as you can, use cold water first (heat cooks protein stains into the fibre), and blot rather than rub. Always test a stain remover on an inside seam before using it where it shows.
What to do
Blot off the excess. Work in a little dish soap or liquid detergent, leave for 15 minutes, then wash at the warmest temperature the label allows. Check the stain before drying.
Never
Rinsing with water alone – it won't lift the oil. Pretreat first.
What to do
Rinse under cold running water from the back of the fabric. Dab with a little colour-safe detergent; for whites, an oxygen bleach soak. Wash as usual.
Never
Hot water or heat – it can set the colour.
What to do
Cold rinse, then a drop of liquid detergent worked in with your fingertips. Oxygen bleach for stubborn marks on white cotton.
Never
Ironing or tumble drying before the stain is gone.
What to do
Cold water only, as soon as possible. Soak, then rub in a little enzyme (bio) detergent. On white cotton, 3 % hydrogen peroxide can be used as a last resort – test on a hidden area first.
Never
Warm or hot water – it can set the protein.
What to do
Let mud dry and brush it off. Treat grass with an enzyme stain remover or detergent, wait 10–15 minutes, then wash as warm as the label allows.
Never
Rubbing wet mud into the fabric.
What to do
Rub in liquid detergent or a stain remover and wash. For older discolouration, dab with a little white vinegar first. For yellow underarm marks on whites, use an oxygen bleach soak.
Never
Chlorine bleach – it often makes underarm marks worse.
What to do
Work in a little dish soap or liquid detergent, blot, then wash. Lipstick: dab with rubbing alcohol from the back – test on a hidden area first.
Never
Rubbing – it pushes the pigment into the fibres.
What to do
Place a paper towel under the stain and dab with rubbing alcohol or hand sanitiser from the back until the ink transfers. Test on a hidden area first – some inks won't come out. Wash.
Never
Rubbing or scrubbing – it spreads the ink.
What to do
Freeze the garment in a bag for an hour, then crack and peel off. Remove remaining wax by ironing between paper towels on low. Pretreat any oily mark left behind, then wash.
Never
Picking at it while it's warm.
What to do
Cold rinse, a little liquid detergent, wait, wash. Test any product on a hidden area first. If the stain survives, take it to a professional and tell them what you've already tried.
Never
Heat of any kind until it's gone.
Cold water, wool detergent, fingertips only. No enzyme (bio) detergents and no chlorine bleach. Test any solvent, such as alcohol, on a hidden seam first. If the stain is serious, go straight to a professional.
Look at the stain while the garment is still wet. If it's still there, treat it again. Tumble drying or ironing can set a stain so it may not come out.
Fabric by fabric
Every material reacts differently to water, heat and movement. Here is what to keep in mind for the fabrics and garments we see most, so each piece keeps its shape, colour and feel for longer.
The care label always comes first. These tips explain why the label says what it says.
Strong, breathable and easy to care for. Most cotton is fine at 30–40 °C. Hot washes and tumble drying can make it shrink, especially the first few times. Wash whites on their own so they stay bright.
Iron while still slightly damp for the best result.
Linen is a natural fibre, and when wet it easily loses its shape. Pull it gently into shape while it is still damp, and use a steam iron on the hottest linen setting.
Iron on the reverse side. That way you avoid shiny marks on dark colours, and the natural sheen is kept. A few soft creases are part of linen's character.
These fibres are made from cellulose, usually from wood pulp. They are soft and drape beautifully, but wet fibres are weaker, so the garment can lose its shape or shrink.
Wash on a gentle cycle, never wring, and hang to dry. If the garment has lost its shape, a steam iron quickly sets it right.
Wool cleans itself surprisingly well, so it often just needs airing. When it needs a wash, use a wool detergent without enzymes and your machine's wool programme, or wash it by hand in lukewarm water.
Press out the water in a towel and dry flat. Steam it afterwards or press through a cloth, and the natural sheen comes back.
Fine, soft yarns need the gentlest treatment. Hand wash or use the wool cycle with wool detergent, squeeze out the water without twisting and dry flat on a towel, reshaping while damp.
Pilling is normal at first. Remove it with a cashmere comb or fabric shaver.
Heavy knits stretch under their own weight when wet or on a hanger. Reshape them by hand after washing and dry them flat, as the "dry flat" symbol on the care label shows.
Keep them folded in the wardrobe, never hanging.
Silk is one of the most delicate natural fibres. Wash it by hand or on a delicate programme in a laundry bag, in cool water with a silk or mild detergent.
Wet silk must not be wrung or stretched. Roll it in a towel to remove the water, dry it out of direct sunlight and iron on the reverse at low heat.
Polyester and polyamide dry quickly and rarely need ironing. Wash at 30–40 °C. High heat can leave permanent creases or a shine.
Sportswear holds on to odour, so wash it soon after use and skip the fabric softener. Full loads at low temperatures shed fewer fibres, and a laundry bag can help catch them.
Elastane gives jeans, leggings and underwear their stretch, but it does not like heat. Avoid hot washes, high tumble-dryer heat, chlorine bleach and fabric softener, which all wear out the elasticity faster.
Wash jeans rarely, inside out and at a low temperature, so the colour lasts longer. Hang them up straight after the wash so they don't crease.
Indigo-dyed denim can give off some loose dye, especially when the jeans are new, and it can transfer to light fabrics and furniture. Wash new jeans separately the first few times.
Jeans are tough, but colour and fit last longer with a little care at each step.
01 · Wash
Jeans rarely need a full wash – every five to ten wears is plenty unless they get properly dirty. In between, air them and spot-clean marks.
Hand washing in cold water is the gentlest option. In the machine, turn them inside out, choose a cool, short cycle and don't overfill the drum. Take them out as soon as the cycle ends to avoid creases.
02 · Colour
Dark and black denim fades with every wash. Wash inside out at no more than 30 °C, with a detergent for dark colours. Hand washing keeps the colour longest.
Dry them out of direct sunlight.
03 · Dry
Turn them inside out and peg them on the line by the hems, out of direct sun. The water runs towards the waistband, so they dry faster and with fewer creases. Or lay them flat. Skip the tumble dryer – heat can shrink denim and make it lose its shape.
04 · Iron
Line-dried jeans rarely need ironing. If they do, iron inside out or through a clean tea towel while slightly damp, at the temperature shown on the label. Stretch jeans with elastane need a lower setting than pure cotton. Smooth out the pockets and start with the legs.
05 · Fold
Hold the jeans at the waist, lay the legs together, then fold them in half. Don't fold too tightly, or the creases will stay.
06 · Store
Jeans can hang or lie folded. When you stack them, alternate the waistbands so the pile stays flat. Lined up side by side in a drawer, they are easier to find and don't crease each other.
A good suit lasts for years if you treat it gently. Most of the care happens between wears, not at the cleaner's.
01 · Rest
Give your suit a day or two off between wears. Wool recovers its shape and creases fall out while it hangs.
02 · Hang
Use a wide wooden hanger with curved ends that fills the shoulders. Hang the trousers by the hem with clip hangers so creases drop out.
03 · Brush
A soft clothes brush, ideally natural bristle, lifts dust before it settles in the weave. Brush gently downwards.
04 · Steam
A steamer, or the steam from a hot shower, relaxes creases and freshens the fabric. If you need to press, use low heat and a pressing cloth.
05 · Clean
Dab small marks with a damp cloth, never rub. Dry clean only a few times a year, and always jacket and trousers together so the colour stays the same.
06 · Store
Empty heavy pockets – phones and wallets pull the jacket out of shape. Store it clean in a closed cotton garment bag, never plastic, and check it now and then – clean clothes and a closed bag are the best protection against moths.
Tip: Wearing a suit often? Spare trousers make it last longer, because the trousers wear out first.
A crisp shirt is mostly about the wash – and the first few minutes after it.
01 · Prepare
Open all buttons, including collar and cuffs, and take out collar stays and cufflinks before washing.
02 · Pre-treat
Work a little soap into marks on the collar and cuffs, leave it for a few minutes and rinse in cold water. Don't scrub.
03 · Wash
Follow the label, turn the shirt inside out and use a mild detergent – and not too much. Extra detergent doesn't clean better, it just dulls the fabric.
04 · Dry
Put the shirt on a shaped hanger straight from the machine and button the top button. Skip the tumble dryer, or use low heat only.
05 · Iron
Start with the collar, then the cuffs, yoke and sleeves, and finish with the front and back. A damp shirt irons faster and smoother.
06 · Store
Hang shirts on wooden hangers with a little space between them so they don't crease, or fold them neatly for travel.
Tip: Between wears, hang the shirt in the bathroom while you shower. The steam softens light creases.
Ties are small, but often made of fine silk or wool. A few habits keep them smooth and in shape.
01 · Untie
Undo the knot by reversing the steps you tied it with. Pulling the narrow end straight through the knot stretches and twists the fabric.
02 · Rest
Untie your tie after every wear and give it a few days off. Creases from the knot relax on their own.
03 · Store
Roll the tie loosely from the narrow end, or hang it on a tie rack. Rolling suits silk and knitted ties best.
04 · Stains
Blot spills straight away with a clean cloth. On grease, sprinkle a little cornflour or talc, let it absorb and brush it off. Test any stain remover on the back first.
05 · Creases
Most creases disappear when the tie hangs or lies rolled overnight. For the rest, use steam – or a cool iron through a cloth on the back.
06 · Clean
Silk and wool ties are best left to a professional cleaner. Cotton and polyester ties can be hand washed in cold water – then dry them flat to keep their shape.
Tip: Travelling? Roll the tie loosely and tuck it into a shoe, so it arrives without creases.
Some pieces need more than the right fabric care.
Outerwear
Wash at the temperature on the label with a down detergent and no fabric softener. Tumble dry on low with two or three clean tennis balls, so the down doesn't clump.
Keep drying until the down is completely dry. Damp down clumps together and can start to smell.
Outerwear
Wash rainwear with a mild detergent, skip the fabric softener and always follow the care label. Hang it up to drip-dry, or use a drying cabinet at a low temperature.
Leather
Leather and suede clothes should be cleaned professionally by a specialist. Leather shoes and bags last longer with polish or a waterproofing spray, which protects them from water and dirt.
Use spray only on suede and nubuck, never polish, and keep them for dry days. Moisture can cause stains and make the colour rub off more easily. Shoe trees keep shoes in shape.
Underwear
Close all hooks and wash by hand or in a laundry bag on a delicate cycle. Never tumble dry. Heat damages elastane, lace and underwires.
Reshape the cups while damp and let them air dry.
Swim
Chlorine, salt water and sun cream all wear on the fabric. Rinse swimwear in cool, clean water as soon as you can after swimming, then wash gently by hand with a mild detergent.
Don't wring it. Dry it flat in the shade.
Details
Turn the garment inside out and wash on a delicate cycle, ideally in a laundry bag. Skip the tumble dryer, and never iron directly on prints, sequins or embroidery.
Between seasons
Good storage keeps garments ready for next season and protects them from moths, fading and creases.
Stains can darken over time, and moths are drawn to wool and other animal fibres that have been worn. Wash or air everything before it goes away for the season.
Fold knitwear so it keeps its shape. Hang shirts, dresses and coats on wide, shaped hangers that support the shoulders.
Use cotton garment bags or boxes rather than plastic for long-term storage. Plastic traps moisture. Remove dry-cleaning covers when you get home.
Sunlight fades colours and damp encourages mould. Air the wardrobe now and then and check stored wool regularly. Cedar and lavender smell lovely, but they protect only a little on their own – cedar loses its effect after a few years. Clean clothes in closed bags or boxes are what keep moths out.
Always follow the care label on your garment. These tips are general guidance.
Why it matters
Small changes in how you wash and dry make a big difference, both to your garments and to the planet.
Fill the machine, but don't overload it, and choose a low temperature and a gentle spin. Cooler washes are kinder to the fabric, help prevent shrinking, keep colours bright for longer and save energy with every load.
A tumble dryer uses a lot of energy and is hard on your clothes. Drying on a line or rack is gentler: it reduces wear, keeps garments from shrinking, means fewer creases and less pilling, and uses no energy at all.
Not everything needs a wash. Every wash wears the fabric a little and uses water and energy. Often, a few hours of fresh air and a quick brush are all it takes to make a garment feel fresh again.
Knitwear is soft and stretchy, which also means it can lose its shape on a hanger. Dry it flat and keep it folded in your wardrobe. When washing, choose hand wash or a delicate programme to protect its natural stretch.
Those small fuzzy balls on the surface are called pilling, and they are especially common on wool and soft knits. They are completely natural and no reason to say goodbye to a favourite garment. Turn clothes inside out before washing to reduce pilling, and use a fabric shaver to remove it in seconds.
Leather is strong, yet sensitive. Keep it away from moisture, heat, rain and harsh chemicals. Wipe light marks with a damp cloth and leave tougher stains to a professional cleaner. If leather gets wet, let it dry naturally at room temperature. Give other accessories a regular clean with a soft cloth or brush, and choose gentle, eco-friendly cleaning products.
Pass it on. Clothes you no longer wear deserve better than the back of the wardrobe. Give them to a friend, swap them or bring them to a second-hand shop – and let them start a new life in someone else's wardrobe.
Most asked questions
Often, yes. Soak it for 30 minutes in lukewarm water with a good squeeze of hair conditioner or baby shampoo, which relaxes the fibres. Press out the water, lay flat on a towel and gently stretch it back to size as it dries, pinning if needed. It won't work on heavily felted wool, but it rescues most mild shrinkage.
Three culprits: hot water, tumble drying and sunlight. Wash darks inside out at 30 °C with a colour detergent, dry in the shade, and fading slows dramatically.
As rarely as you're comfortable with – every five to ten wears is common. Air them between wears and spot-clean marks. When they start to feel loose or smell, wash at 30 °C inside out.
Usually the machine, not the clothes. Run an empty 90 °C cycle with a machine cleaner, wipe the door seal, leave the door and the detergent drawer open between washes, and don't leave wet laundry in the drum.
One bar: use a gentle cycle with less spin. Two bars: very gentle, minimal spin – the machine's delicate or wool setting. No bar: a normal cycle is fine. See the symbol guide.
Only from the inside, on low heat, never directly on the print. Better still, steam or simply hang the garment after washing.
That's a mix of sweat and deodorant. Make a paste of oxygen bleach and water, work it in, leave for an hour, wash at 40–60 °C. Switching to an aluminium-free deodorant prevents it.
Sometimes it means "we haven't tested washing", sometimes it's essential (structured jackets, some silks, anything glued or pleated). If you want to try at home, hand wash cold, test an inside seam first, and accept the risk. When in doubt, a cleaner is cheaper than a replacement.
